During the three-month period of Buddhist Lent, monsoon rains have swollen the rivers, allowing mythical water serpents, known as Nagas, to swim into the irrigated paddies. As the Lao wait for their rice to grow, they organize longboat races between neighboring villages in an attempt to lure the playful guardian Nagas back into the rivers before they recede. The villagers compete for bragging rights and prizes as crowds cheer on with great merriment.
In Luang Prabang, the tournament is held halfway through Buddhist Lent (in 2019 it will be on August 29th) on the Khan River as onlookers crowd both banks. At the finish line, Miss New Year and Lao dignitaries watch the races from a grand pavilion and award prizes to the winning teams.
The race takes place on the Khan River over a 750m stretch from the base of Phousi Hill to the Boat Racing Pavilion near the mouth of the river.
Rowers aim to synchronize the speed and maximize the strength of their strokes. This is the winning formula for success in this competition.
Onlookers pray at the beginning of the race. The festival takes place on Hor Khao Padap Din, a festival occurring in the middle of Buddhist Lent which honors the spirits of hungry and forgotten spirits. In the wee morning hours, believers will leave small parcels of food and offerings around fences, gates, and stupas for the spirits.
Monks bless the participants and the populace before the races begin. They also ask for a plentiful harvest and prosperity for the town.
Crews of 55 people maneuver each boat. Most of these are paddlers and one is a steerer. They keep their pace by shouting in unison with each stroke.
Novice monks at Wat Siphoutthabath have a good vantage point of the races and festivities from their temple on the slopes of Phousi Hill.
Races are often neck and neck. The men at the front of the boat call out directions to the paddlers and steerer and keep an eye out for obstacles.
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