The Story of Luang Prabang’s Guardian Ancestors

Text by: Anita Preston

Photos by: Anita Preston / Evensong Film

In Luang Prabang, a pair of unusual figures with strange red faces, large mouths, and long, string-like hair is a common sight in shops, temples, and even on T-shirts. These eye-catching figures, known as Pou Yer and Ya Yer (Grandma and Grandpa Yer), are beloved by locals and hold deep cultural and spiritual significance. Standing tall and covered in raffia, the figures are eye-catching and unique. Thick eyebrows line their foreheads, discs of silver and gold adorn their ears, and glint in the sun. Even though these figures are unworldly, they are cute and friendly, nothing threatening at all about them. 

Pou Yer and Ya Yer are among the most revered figures in the mythos of Luang Prabang. They are believed to be the mythical founders and guardians of the city, and, according to some stories, the ancestors of all Lao people. These figures have their own entourage during the annual Lao New Year celebrations in April, where they are central to many key ceremonies. Alongside their golden lion child, Singkeo Singkham, they take part in a grand parade, and locals eagerly pour water on them, take photographs, and pluck a piece of raffia “hair,” which is considered especially auspicious if you can grab one.   

Laos’ myths have several versions of the origins of Pou Yer and Ya Yer. One legend tells of angels sent from heaven to save mankind during a flood. Stepping on bubbles, they created land, and their adopted son became the ancestor of the Lane Xang dynasty. Another folktale explains how the couple sacrificed their lives to cut down a giant tree that had kept Luang Prabang in darkness. It took them three months and three days to cut down the tree, which resulted in their deaths. The tree was said to be at the confluence of the Mekong and Nam Khan rivers, and Luang Prabang grew from this spot. This act of selflessness solidified their status as the city’s protectors. Regardless of the version, they are seen as embodiments of sacrifice, selflessness, and a willingness to help others, values that are celebrated during the New Year.

In Wat Aham, two banyan trees are said to house the spirits of Pou Yer Ya Yer. An outbuilding, known as Hor Thevada Luang (tower of the great spirits), serves as their shrine. The positions of guardianship are hereditary, and certain families living near Wat Aham have been entrusted with the duty of keeping and protecting Pou Yer and Ya Yer for generations. During the festivities, these families act as bodyguards, accompanying the figures and ensuring their safety and respect. 

The Lao New Year celebrations begin with a traditional ceremony in which Pou Yer, Ya Yer, and Singkeo Singkham are taken from their shrine at Wat Aham. The guardians are honored with offerings of alcohol, cooked chickens, and fruit, while prayers are chanted and candles are lit. Adding to the tradition’s sacredness, the identities of the individuals who don the Pou Yer and Ya Yer costumes are kept secret. After donning the costumes, they are escorted by drummers and monks to a sacred spring upstream from the old bridge, where they collect holy water. This water is then poured onto the Prabang Buddha statue, marking the first washing of the Buddha and the start of the New Year festivities.

The significance of Pou Yer and Ya Yer is evident throughout the celebrations. As they join the parade, they perform dances to bring luck and joy to the people. One such dance takes place at Wat Xieng Thong on the third day of the Lao New Year, while Wat Aham and its neighbor, the colossal Wat Visoun, also host dances in honor of the guardians. Locals gather to watch, clap, and laugh, creating an atmosphere of joy as Pou Yer and Ya Yer dance in front of the altar.

Pou Yer Ya Yer and their story are a compelling part of the religious and cultural history of Luang Prabang. Every year, their presence during the Lao New Year festivities brings joy, blessings, and a sense of unity to the people of Luang Prabang. At the end of the celebrations, when everyone is sated from dancing and throwing water, the guardians are quietly returned to their boxes in Wat Aham to rest for another year, awaiting their next annual procession.

Getting there:

Lao Airlines has frequent flights to Luang Prabang from Vientiane, Pakse, Bangkok, Chiang Mai, and Hanoi.