Text by: Jason Rolan
Photos by: Sivixay Manivong /Champa Project Team

Time moves like the languid flow of the Mekong in Champasak, where wooden houses peek through palm fronds against the backdrop of the majestic Phou Kao – the sacred mountain that the magnificent UNESCO site of Vat Phou was built to honor. But this sleepy riverside town, the seat of the ancient Champasak Kingdom, has witnessed centuries of change. And thanks to the CHAMPA Project funded by the French Development Agency (AFD), many initiatives are emerging to make the city more attractive in terms of tourist offerings and to allow visitors to stay longer. In particular,locals are now receiving support to preserve and develop the intangible heritage of the area.

Begin in Ban Meuang Sen, where the rhythmic thump of pottery wheels echoes from Mr. Soulivanh’s workshop as he shapes clay into stunning Hindu and Buddhist imagery reminiscent of Vat Phou. Nearby, the click-clack of traditional looms draws you to Mrs. Khamdeng’s weaving sanctuary, where indigo-stained fingers work threads into intricate patterns that tell stories of Lao heritage (open daily, 11am-2pm and 4pm-8pm).

For a sublime morning walk, follow the Mekong’s edge along a thematic trail to Mrs. Kiewsavanh’s newly renovated basketry showroom near Meuang Kang temple. Here, strips of bamboo are transformed into delicate vessels, their sweet grassy scent mingling with the river breeze. “The CHAMPA project gave me a proper space to store my work,” she says, proudly showing off sticky rice baskets that now survive the monsoon season intact.

The mighty Mekong, once merely admired from the shore, now invites exploration through Anouxa Kayak Service’s guided tours (from 275,000 kip per person in groups of 5-10). Paddle downstream from Ban Phou Ngoi, where fishermen cast nets in the morning light, to Champasak’s center, or cross to Don Daeng island’s pristine beaches. For those preferring more leisurely river observations, sunset cruises with Irrawaddy Cruise offer front-row seats to the sun’s dramatic descent behind palm-fringed banks, to the hidden Tomo temple on the Mekong’s left bank, or Mr. Vieng’s charming homestay on Don Daeng Island in the middle of the river.

As dusk softens the tropical heat, the Palateu Shadow Puppet Theater springs to life (performances Tuesday, Wednesday, Friday, and Saturday at 8:15 pm). In a newly constructed venue next to the tourist office, ancient tales inspired by the Ramayana unfold through intricate shadow puppets, their silhouettes dancing to traditional music. The CHAMPA project also supported the purchase of new traditional instruments and the training of a young generation of artists who will take up the torch in the future.

Champasak’s renaissance extends beyond its cultural offerings. At the AD Learning Center, young voices practice English and French, preparing for interactions with international visitors. “We’re building bridges between cultures,” explains founder Malida, as students role-play guest interactions in a mock hotel reception.

Green initiatives are sprouting too. Electric motorbikes hum quietly past colonial-era buildings, their batteries charging at the new station outside Nakorn River View Guest House. Bicycle rentals from Mr. Khemphet’s shop (Ban Phoxay) offer a slower-paced exploration of the town’s atmospheric lanes and surrounding rice fields.

At Homemade restaurant in Ban Vat Amat, owner Bounmee has transformed his post-COVID restart into a culinary education center. Here, morning cooking classes (book through your guesthouse) reveal the secrets of Lao cuisine, from the perfect sticky rice to aromatic herb-laced soups, or his specialty – naem khao, a crispy rice salad. For simpler pleasures, follow your nose to Mrs. Thatsanee’s morning bakery, where visitors prepare for their day’s explorations with a belly full of traditional Lao cakes.

In Thang Khop village, reached via a scenic drive toward Vat Phou, a women’s collective transforms local bamboo into contemporary bags – a testament to sustainable craft evolution. The sound of splitting bamboo and gentle laughter fills the air as artisans work, their finished products combining traditional techniques with modern design (open daily, 8 am-4 pm).

For sports enthusiasts, the Champasak Sports Hall offers an energetic counterpoint to the town’s serene atmosphere. Here, visitors can engage in friendly yet competitive matches of badminton, basketball, and table tennis, adding a dynamic pulse to their cultural exploration. Those seeking wellness can find solace at the Champasak Spa in Ban Nakorn or join rejuvenating yoga classes at La Folie Lodge on Don Daeng Island, where a tranquil botanical garden complements the holistic experience.

History buffs and temple lovers can extend their stay by exploring the iconic temples of Hong Nang Sida, Hong Thao Tao, and That Sam Phang. These ancient sites offer deeper insights into the rich archaeological landscape of the region. Exciting developments are underway to enhance visitor experiences, with thematic trails being developed to enrich the interpretation of the World Heritage site. In 2025, an interpretation pavilion will open in Houay Sa Houa, located in the Ancient City that dates back to the 5th century AD, complete with a new path to observe ancient structures.

Yet even as change ripples through this ancient town, its soul remains intact. Here, among the frangipani trees and temple spires, traditional life continues its gentle pace, now enriched by the thoughtful development of responsible and sustainable tourism.

The CHAMPA Project continues to weave ambitious plans for Champasak’s future, promising to enhance the visitor experience. A comprehensive website brimming with visitor information has also just launched, offering travelers a digital gateway to the region’s rich cultural landscape. Trail enthusiasts will soon discover an expanded network of exploration routes, including an innovative half-day handicraft trail threading through Champasak town and at least two archaeological trails around Vat Phou and the ancient city – perfectly designed for those eager to walk 2-3 hours and immerse themselves in the area’s historical depths. Other major developments promise to further enhance Champasak’s appeal – a new Cultural Center rises near the river, while at Phaphin pier, renovation work heralds the arrival of easier connections with the far bank and destinations beyond. 

Cultural infrastructure is also receiving careful attention. The Vat Phou Museum is slated for a comprehensive renovation and expansion, promising to provide deeper insights into the region’s storied past with new information discovered by LIDAR research also on display. Meanwhile, the library at Vat Meuang Kang undergoes meticulous restoration to preserve the character of this unique structure. The city center and its Mekong riverfront are currently being transformed, creating new spaces for locals and visitors to gather and connect.

Whether arriving by river cruise from Pakse (Mr. Olaivanh: 030 9800252) or local transport, today’s Champasak rewards those who linger. In this transformed town, where craft revival meets riverine charm, every temple shadow and workshop doorway holds stories waiting to be discovered.

The CHAMPA Project is a collaborative initiative involving the Vat Phou World Heritage Site Division, Champasak local authorities, and the EFEO (École Française d’Extrême-Orient), generously funded by the French Development Agency (AFD). With a comprehensive approach, the project seeks to safeguard and elevate both cultural and natural heritage while stimulating local tourism and community development. Through a strategic call for proposals, the project supports 40 local tourism initiatives, championing responsible tourism practices and actively preserving the region’s intangible cultural heritage.

For more info, visit: www.tourismchampasak.com, developed by the CHAMPA Project, for a wealth of information on visiting Champasak. Or visit the Tourist Information Center: +856 (0) 20 94290543, located on the square in the town center.

Getting there: Lao Airlines flies to Pakse from Vientiane, Luang Prabang, Siem Reap, and Ho Chi Minh City.