Text by: Endy Khamsing

Translated by: Nick Pugh

Photos by: Vilavanh Chanthavong

Phou Phanang is one of the National Parks of Laos. It spans an area of 70,000 hectares and is situated to the west of Vientiane. The section of the park I will be visiting today is near Ang Yai village in Sikhottabong district. Traveling out to Phou Phanang takes around 40 minutes by car traveling westward from downtown Vientiane along the Mekong riverbank before reaching Wealth Coffee, a cafe where you can take a break from the trip before starting your hike into the forest and all the pristine scenery of Phou Phanang. Wealth Coffee also functions as a campsite and provides tents, for those who need them. They have their own campsite available with advance reservation.

As dusk approaches, a campfire is lit for everyone to keep warm from the chilly breezes. After this, I enjoyed some drinks while taking in the peaceful natural atmosphere under the shining starlit sky before turning in for a solid night’s sleep to recharge me for the journey and dazzling sights to come. 

The following morning, I set off with a group of other tourists moving off in the same direction being led by a small dog named Deng, which had the duty of leading visitors to the scenic spots. The trail leading up covered around five kilometers and took an hour or more, depending on the speed of the hikers. The trail led us up some challenging slopes and across some barren landscapes but remained within the capability of the novice hikers although they were careful to follow the routes taken by Deng and hikers leading the group to ensure they did not lose their way. 

As we approached a scenic viewpoint, we came across a merit-making spot situated under a large stone slab, where there were two Buddha images and one gong. Not far from the stone slab area, the Phou Phanang scenic spot could finally be found and once beheld, the picture turned out to be well worth the two-hour laborious struggle up the mountain. It is the very epitome of picturesque nature and was adorned by a glorious panorama of lesser summits pasted against a pure white background. The Mekong riverbank can be seen reflecting our country’s abundance in all its grandeur. Speaking for myself, I could easily sit here all day without a shred of boredom. Each time I visit, I feel one with the splendor of nature and this relieves me of that which denies my mind peace by allowing myself to be cleansed from all such troubles from my being.

Phou Phanang could be considered as the lungs of Sikhottabong district where both domestic and foreign tourists go to visit its serenity and superlative magnificence. If in need of a lungful of fresh air and peaceful natural relaxation in addition to a challenging but rewarding hike without venturing too far out of the capital, Phou Phanang would be a fantastic option for this weekend.

Getting there:

The trailhead for this hike begins about 30km west of Vientiane at Wealth Coffee