Text by: Anita Preston

Photos by: Anita Preston / Evensong Film

“The Mekong doesn’t give up her secrets easily,” a National Geographic team remarked in 2009 after an ambitious attempt to locate a legendary treasure. What lies beneath the river’s murky depths? The story of La Grandière—a steamship carrying priceless artifacts and a shroud of mystery—continues to intrigue adventurers and historians alike.

It all began in 1893 when La Grandière, a state-of-the-art steamship built in France, made its way to Southeast Asia. Prefabricated in France and reassembled in Saigon, the ship was destined to navigate the mighty Mekong River under the flag of the Messageries Fluviales de Cochinchine, a prominent river shipping company. The ship faced a formidable challenge to reach Laos: the thunderous Khone Papaeng Falls, a natural barrier at the 4000 Islands region. Ingeniously, the French dismantled the vessel, transporting its pieces across Don Khone Island via Laos’ first railway—a feat symbolizing human determination against nature.

By the early 1900s, La Grandière was a familiar sight on the Mekong, earning its Lao nickname, Kampan Nyai (the colossal boat). But its greatest voyage would also be its last.

In 1910, French General Léon de Beylie arrived in Luang Prabang, drawn by its rich cultural heritage. Born in Strasbourg, Beylie was a career soldier and an avid art collector fascinated with Asia’s spiritual treasures. During an informal visit with King Sisavangvong, Beylie proposed borrowing religious artifacts for a special exhibition at the Louvre. The king reluctantly agreed though removing sacred objects from their homes was considered deeply taboo.

Under the cover of darkness, golden Buddha statues, jeweled ornaments, and ancient relics—including treasures from the revered Wat Visoun—were loaded onto La Grandière. Locals whispered of unease, describing the ship’s smoke stacks as resembling a devil’s breath. At dawn, the colossal boat departed, carrying its controversial cargo southward.

Disaster struck near Tha Deua, Xayaboury Province, in a perilous stretch of rapids known for its treacherous waters. La Grandière floundered and sank, taking with it its passengers, crew, and priceless artifacts. The tragedy shook the colonies. While the bodies were recovered for a state funeral in Saigon, the treasure disappeared beneath the Mekong, buried in layers of silt and sediment.

The story of La Grandière and its precious cargo has become an integral part of Mekong folklore, adding another layer to the rich tapestry of Luang Prabang’s cultural heritage. Local elders still share tales of the magnificent vessel, and its memory lives on in the region’s oral traditions.

The allure of history continues to draw adventurers to the Mekong’s waters. In 2009, a National Geographic team equipped with cutting-edge sonar technology embarked on an ambitious expedition, documented in “The Lost Buddhas of the Mekong.” While the river’s powerful currents and complex underwater topography presented significant challenges, their journey highlighted the remarkable advances in marine archaeology.

Today’s travelers can experience their own Mekong adventure through various river cruises that trace La Grandière’s historic route. Local operators offer everything from traditional slow boats to luxury vessels, each providing unique perspectives on the river’s grandeur. The journey from Luang Prabang takes you past golden temples, vibrant villages, and dramatic limestone cliffs—scenes that have remained largely unchanged since La Grandière’s time.

Visitors to Luang Prabang can delve deeper into this fascinating history at the National Museum, housed in the former Royal Palace. Here, an impressive collection of Buddhist artifacts helps visitors understand the artistic and spiritual significance of the lost treasures. The nearby Wat Visoun, with its distinctive stupa and extensive collection of Buddhist art, offers another window into the region’s rich religious heritage.

Expert tip: Plan your river excursion during the early morning hours when the light is soft and the water is at its calmest. This is when local fishermen set out in their boats, creating perfect photo opportunities against the misty backdrop of the Mekong.

With its swirling eddies and tranquil stretches, the river holds a magnetic allure. It’s easy to see why the Mekong has captured the imagination of explorers for centuries—it is a river that guards its mysteries well. Will the treasure of La Grandière ever resurface? For now, the Mekong keeps her secrets, leaving travelers to wonder what lies beneath her depths.

Getting there: Lao Airlines flies to Luang Prabang from Vientiane, Pakse, Hanoi, Bangkok, Siem Reap and Chiang Mai