See it before the crowds arrive

Text and Photos by: Mick Shippen

Luang Prabang is often called one of the most beautiful places in Laos. But travelers should also look north to Meuang Xay, the capital of Oudomxay Province. It is only about 45 minutes from Luang Prabang by high-speed train, making it an easy and interesting stop on a northern Laos trip.

Meuang Xay is a town that is changing quickly. When visitors arrive at the train station, electric buses are ready to take them into town or to their hotel for only 10,000 kip. Around town, new cafés, restaurants, and small businesses are opening. Popular places such as Hong Tieng Coffee and Bar, the arrival of Amazon café, and many Chinese restaurants show that Meuang Xay is becoming more modern and better connected to the region.

Visitors can easily spend two or three nights here. One of the main places to visit is Phou That, a hilltop stupa near the main street. The temple is believed to have been built by the Tai Leu people as early as the 14th century. Today, visitors can see a golden stupa and a large 18-meter standing Buddha. The best time to visit is in the late afternoon, when the sunset lights up the hilltop.

For those interested in local crafts, the House of Ethnic Culture Conservation, also known as the Tai Leu Handicraft Center, is worth a visit. Travelers can watch local weavers at work and buy handmade textiles and clothing.

Meuang Xay is also a good place to enjoy local food. The town has two fresh markets: Thin Market, near Charming Lao Hotel, and the larger Talat Nong Maeng Da. These markets are colorful places to see local vegetables, forest products, snacks, and seasonal ingredients.

Along the main street, visitors can find simple and tasty Lao meals such as stewed pork leg with rice, steamed chicken with rice, jeo som dipping sauce, and northern Lao khao soi noodle soup. There are also more Chinese restaurants now, especially near Charming Lao Hotel and Thin Market.

Another quiet experience in Meuang Xay is tak baat, the morning almsgiving ceremony. It usually begins around 6:30 a.m. Unlike in Luang Prabang, visitors can watch from a respectful distance without large crowds.

Oudomxay Province is home to many ethnic groups, including Kmhmu, Hmong, Akha, Lanten, Tai Dam, Tai Leu, Phouan, and Phou Noi. The Kmhmu are believed to be one of the earliest groups to settle in the area. This cultural diversity is celebrated during the Ethnic Cultural Festival, usually held in January or February at the town’s sports stadium. The festival features performances, food, and local traditions.

For nature and adventure, Nam Kat Yorla Pa is one of the best places to visit. The resort is about 17 kilometers from Meuang Xay, on the edge of a protected forest. Guests and day visitors can hike, cycle, ride ATVs, try zip-lining, take a cooking class, or learn more about Kmhmu culture. Families can also enjoy the activity center and swimming pool. The resort also has a biodiversity museum showing the wildlife of the Nam Kat forest.

Travelers with more time can visit Meuang La district, about 28 kilometers from Meuang Xay. The road passes through mountain scenery and a hilltribe market before reaching a peaceful village with Phra Chao Singkham temple, an important pilgrimage site.

Meuang Xay is growing fast because of the Laos-China Railway. It is still quiet, local, and full of charm, but that may not last forever. Visit now, before more travelers discover it.

Getting there and around town:

Travelers can fly with Lao Airlines from Vientiane to Luang Prabang, then continue to Meuang Xay by train. Daily trains are available and can be booked through the Laos-China Railway app.

Getting around Meuang Xay is easy. Electric buses wait at the station to take visitors to hotels and can also be hailed around town or arranged for return trips to the station.