The Maeklong Railway

Text by: Anita Preston

Photos by: Anita Preston / Evensong Film

Most people come to Bangkok for its energy: the street life, the food, the traffic, the heat, and the constant motion that gives the city its pulse. But after a few days, that same intensity can start to feel overwhelming. When that happens, one of the easiest and most rewarding escapes is to leave the capital behind for a day and let the train carry you into a quieter landscape of canals, salt marshes, fishing towns, and floating markets.

Taking inspiration from Richard Barrow’s Thai Train Guide, we set out on a day trip through the outskirts of Bangkok on a railway line first built in 1904. Our destination was Samut Sakhon province, an area with a long commercial and maritime history just beyond the capital. The trip promised not only a change of scenery but also a chance to see a side of central Thailand that feels far removed from the city, despite being close enough to reach in a morning. 

The journey begins at Wongwian Yai Station, west of Bangkok, across the Chao Phraya River. It is best to start early, before the day’s heat settles in. Near the station is a large roundabout, a wongwian yai, graced by an imposing statue of King Taksin atop a powerful-looking steed. Before boarding, the market near the station is worth a quick stop for breakfast or an early lunch. Vendors serve curries, rice dishes, snacks, and drinks to commuters and passersby, setting the tone for a day in which food becomes as much a part of the journey as the scenery.

The station at Wongwian Yai itself is simple: one track and one platform that is, of course, lined with food vendors. A ten-baht ticket bought on the platform will get you to the first stop, Mahachai. It’s a working commuter line used by people traveling between the city and the outskirts. The pace is slow and the journey breezy. Fans and open windows soften the heat as the train passes through the city and transitions from urban to countryside. Slowly, the city is left behind, and concrete buildings and level crossings are replaced by numerous canals, salt marshes, flocks of herons, and groves of banana and mango trees. 

The first stop after about one hour is Mahachai. On the banks of the Tha Chin River and near the Gulf of Thailand. The province is famed for its seafood, as the numerous rivers and canals crisscrossing it are rich in nutrients and plankton. Local mackerel, or pla thu, is especially famous for its meaty, abundant flesh. The town has the bustle of a place shaped by fishing, trade, and transport. Markets spill into the surrounding streets with displays of fresh fish, squid, shellfish, fruit, and prepared snacks. The air carries the mixed scents of river water, charcoal smoke, and cooking seafood. 

Lunch here is one of the highlights of the trip. We found a breezy restaurant overlooking the ferry crossing, with wide views across the water and the easy movement of boats coming and going. Shrimp fried rice, prawns with young coconut, and a rich crab curry made for a memorable meal, generous in portion and full of the freshness for which the province is known. After lunch, it was a pleasure simply to sit for a while and watch the river traffic and spot numerous herons standing on large rafts of water hyacinth idly drifting by. 

From Mahachai, the journey becomes more varied. A short ferry ride crosses the Tha Chin River to Tha Chalom pier, followed by a brief songthaew ride to Ban Laem Station. This transfer is part of what makes the trip feel exploratory. It breaks the day into stages and gives each stretch of the route its own character. Ban Laem itself has a quieter feel, and for railway enthusiasts, there is even a small museum nearby with old steam engines.

The second train ride, lasting about an hour, leads to one of Thailand’s most famous railway sights: the Maeklong Railway Market. The market is known for the way vendors set up directly beside the tracks, then pull back awnings and goods moments before the train enters. Once it passes, the market folds back into place almost instantly, as though nothing unusual has happened. It is a spectacle, but it is also part of the daily rhythm of the town. Arriving in Maeklong feels akin to royalty as the crowd cheers, waves, snaps selfies, and stands daringly close to the passing train.

A songthaew ride from Maeklong took us to the Amphawa Floating Market, the final stop of the day. There are many floating markets around Bangkok, and they can blur together in memory, but Amphawa has a gentler, more local character, especially later in the day. Old wooden shopfronts line the canal. Boats move slowly past with seafood sizzling over charcoal grills. Visitors browse for sweets, coffee, ice cream, and souvenirs, while locals come to eat, stroll, and stay overnight to spot fireflies dancing in the evening air. 

For anyone needing a break from Bangkok without straying too far, this journey offers an ideal reset. It is affordable, atmospheric, and rich in variety, moving from city neighborhoods to marshland, from seafood town to railway market to canal-side evening retreat. More than a day trip, it feels like a small unfolding adventure, one that reveals how much of Thailand can still be found just beyond the capital’s edge.

For more information,

check out Richard Barrow’s excellent train guide to Thailand at 

www.thaitrainguide.com.

Getting there:

Lao Airlines operates daily flights from Vientiane to Bangkok.